Poole to Dartmouth via Cherbourg!!

I had arranged to help my mate Marcus to sail his yacht El Nino (a Dufour 32 Integral) from Poole to Dartmouth, which, if the wind gods behaved themselves, would be a quick and straightforward trip of around 10 hours. However given the wind forecast Marcus decided that we should sail for Alderney, and from there we could make Dartmouth all under sail alone.

Marcus picked me up at the airport and after we had picked up groceries etc from Tesco it was down to the boat. After all this was stored we then dropped the mooring to fill up the tanks with water and diesel. We nipped into the new marina and filled up with water – then around to the fuel berth at the bridge, but as it was busy Marcus decided to abort here, and fill up at the fuel barge moored in the harbour. Down the harbour we went but the fuel barge was nowhere to be seen so back to the fuel pontoon at the bridge we went……………ho hum.

From there we went out to anchor in Studland Bay, make an evening meal and get a few hours sleep before departing at midnight. With El Nino having a lifting keel we were able to get really close inshore and find a spot to anchor. This was my first time in Studland Bay and clearly it is a popular spot because there were plenty of boats at anchor.

When we awoke at midnight the wind had either eased off or we were sheltered in the bay, so up with the mainsail and on with the engine. As we rounded “Old Harry” and cleared the headland the wind began to fill in well so engine off genny out and a course set for Alderney. All through the night the wind was pretty strong and gusty and we were close hauled so as tight to the wind as we could get. After sunrise we made the decision to abort on Alderney and instead head for Cherbourg.

On the approach to Cherbourg the wind was still pretty strong and squally, and after we entered past the massive breakwater the wind increased even more. This was my first time sailing into Cherbourg and it is huge with a Navy Base taking up one complete section. There were a few option for us to berth, but the easiest was to go alongside the pontoon that sits by itself in the harbour, and use the dinghy to go ashore. We were both pretty jaded after the crossing and turned in for a few hours sleep. In fact we never went ashore until the next morning, and we had a good walk around the town picking up a few bits and pieces that we needed.

Having a look at the route and tides over to Dartmouth we decided to set off at 1000 the next morning rather than set off at 0400, and we reckoned on us having initially one full west going tide, then a full east going tide and the final run into Dartmouth would be with the westerly tide. Off we set and had an absolutely cracking sail with the speed over the ground exceeding our expectation, and it seemed in no time that we were approaching the end of the Traffic Separation Scheme (TSS) in mid channel amazing. When we cleared the northern tip of the TSS the wind started to ease off, which was a disappointment given that it was forecast to go to the south. Eventually we gave up and motorsailed with the swell and waves subsiding noticeably. We eventually got into Dartmouth at around 0130 and tied up at Town Quay and within minutes of tying up the wind began to pipe in strongly. The wee bonus was that it stayed dry for the entire crossing.

In the morning we moved El Nino over to Darthaven Marina and booked a flight for me to get home – luckily there was one at 1215 out of Exeter so that was that for now. Marcus and his family will be using the boat for a week or so and then I will nip back down to help him sail her back to Poole………….question is Dartmouth to Poole via?????

Return to Barcelona

Coloured words (red or blue) if you click on these they link you into more information.

We arrived back at the RCMB club in Barcelona and spent the first few days tidying up the boat and getting things back into shape. After that we had to decide where we wanted to go, and our initial thoughts were to head for the Balearics as we both fancied the anchorages around Formentera. Prudence then kicked in and we decided that perhaps the islands would best be left to another time as this year we had two weeks as opposed to last years six months and a number of days had already gone. So we headed out of Barcelona and had to time our crossing of the main harbour entrance to avoid the commercial traffic and then we basically followed the 10 metre contour down towards Port Ginesta. En route we saw “fins” in the water but these turned out not to be small sharks or dolphin, but rather they were Sunfish really strange looking and there were quite a number all the way down the coast – neat.

Port Ginesta is around say 3 hours from Barcelona, and when we were approaching the marina we called them on the radio and they allocated us a berth and sent a mariniero round to help us berth Med style as Sun Dogs shape doesnt lend itself to Sara leaping onto the pontoon. The marina complex is quite a size, but whether it was the time of year or the economic situation in Spain, but the place was very quiet and there were numerous boats for sale all around the marina. However it does have just about every concievable service you could wish for in a marina, and one in particular that caught my eye was an old fashioned workshop that specialised in stainless steel work, as it’s proven difficult to find this kind of facility on our travels.

Just outside the marina to the west there is a lovely little beach, again not busy, where one could hire out sun loungers from the small stall that sold drinks ice cream etc, and this was almost like having our own private beach. We stayed for a couple of nights and met up with our friends Pete and Debbie who now keep their boat here, and we all had a really good night out at the local pizza joint.

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From there we headed off for a really short trip to Sitges (missing out Garraff which is in between) of around 5nm and have to say that entering the marina everything looked so delightful and pretty – I would go as far as to say that it’s the prettiest harbour/marina we have ever entered, and the berth they had allocated us was right next to the restaurants etc.

Approaching Sitges

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We secured the boat and headed off to explore the area, to the east of the marina we saw a lovely family beach, and then we turned west and walked along the coast towards the town of Sitges where there is another small beach nestled in a cove. Now we are not prudes but on this particular beach there was a high number of people absolutely starkers…………………..now have you ever noticed that the people who do this are normally the shape and size that should automatically preclude them from doing so??

Into the town itself and there is another lovely safe family beach, with the old town itself having some stunning buildings, and we were both duly impressed.

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Now we both knew that Sitges has a reputation especially in the high season of being the Gay capital of Spain. Each to their own we say, but I have to admit to being somewhat discombobulated when we came across a group of guys one of which was wearing a frock and a big sun hat. Sara was in hysterics at my initial shock/reaction, and also when we sat in a bar opposite the family beach for a coffee, it was different seeing so many guys “mincing” their way along the prom. However we loved the place so much that we stayed there until the Wednesday of our last week. If ever you go there is a lovely Argentinian restaurant in the marina called Rosario’s and the food is simply superb – especially the beef! We are so pleased that we had found such a lovely place a short distance from Barcelona, and we would not have known about it had we romped off to the Balearics.

Berthed across from us was a lovely chap Coco from Uruguay who had spent a number of years in the UK with his family, and he was such a helpful and genuine individual that it was a pleasure to spend time in his company.

From there we headed back to Port Ginesta to check out whether the stainless steel guy could fabricate a new assembly for the bow roller, now this was always going to be a long shot as trying to get things done quickly is Spain is a bit of an oxymoron. Through a mixture of Spanish/English/Pen/Paper the owner Ramon agreed for price X he could and would fabricate this in 316 stainless steel, and have it fitted before close of business on Friday. They came along and took the templates they needed and once this was done they needed the old fabrication off to ensure all the holes would all be in exactly the right place. They are also a bit unique in that they open at 0600 and close at 1400; so Friday 1400 was the deadline for this being fabricated and fitted. This meant Sara and I dropping the sail, disconnecting the furler assembly, then stripping off the old bow roller assembly. Sara had the socket set out on deck while I done my impersonation of a contorsionist in getting to the nuts on the underside with a spanner. It took us a good couple of hours to get this all done and up to the workshop.

Despite all our concerns and some final tweaking, it’s fair to say that Ramon, Jordi & the other guy whose name I forget, had done a fantastic job and made it within the agreed time scale, with the last tool off the boat at 1330 on Friday. Really excellent work by good tradesmen and handy to know for future jobs on the boat, though not necessarily during a holiday! Sara didn’t put it as politely as that, but I did catch her drift!!

Here is the finished article c/w with an extra roller on each side for picking up moorings without the need to manhandle the heavy anchor (the old fitting was a single that could only accept either the anchor or a moooring) ………..personally I think it’s all worked out rather well 😉

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The weather forecast was grim for the next few days, so we decided that when the boat was back together that we would head for Barcelona and enjoy our last couple of days in the city. Out we went, mainsail up and motorsailing into a sizeable easterly swell which was pretty much on the nose. Poor Sara after the whole bow roller trauma, started to feel a bit queezy as the motion of the boat was pretty foul. It didn’t get any better when reaching the main breakwater around Barcelona harbours (miles of it) as the reflected waves from the breakwater decided to liven things up a wee bit more. So we had Sara down below, me at the wheel in the wheelhouse steering with the main sheet in one hand while altering course and dodging the commercial traffic, whilst at the same time going through water that at times was like the pyramids. I was glad when we got inside the breakwater and into flat waters as after dropping the sail Sara was able to get back up and move around – she had to endure a full three hours of mal de mer………real shame.

Fenders on, lines ready and under the bridge into the club we went with me thinking all we need to do is get the boat tied up and Sara could start to feel a bit more human. As we are going down to our berth the mariniero tells us our berth is occupied and pointed us to go into another which looked a bit tight, but he said it would be OK – so in we try but then Sara starts saying “excuse me Gerry darling but if you continue trying to get the boat into this slot you will no doubt damage the lovely newly painted hull, therefore I suggest we cease manouvering and try another if you please” well it was words that meant similar!!! The mariniero agreed it was too tight and told us to go around to another wider berth where the boat would definitely fit – bloody hell the whole same scenario again – by this time Sara had had about enough, and I would say she was around a 7 or 8 on the Richter scale…………we gave up trying to get onto a finger pontoon and took up the med syle moorings for bigger boats at the entrance. She did start speaking to me around midnight so maybe things were not as bad as I first thought !

Next day we heard that quite a number of boats had to run for shelter into various ports along the coast due to the strong winds and high seas – so our decision to move last night was a good one, as obviously the swell we had come through yesterday was being pushed along in front of this bad weather. One boat that came in was just through the bridge when we heard an almighty clatter of noise and saw that his anchor had just fallen off his boat and the chain was running and jumping about all over the windlass. In the heat of the moment one of the crew was trying to grab the chain and we almost couldn’t look as we fully expected to see digits flying through the air…….really scary sight.

They then motored around to try and bring the anchor back up again on the electric windlass, but the anchor was caught round the main moorings and once again the crew had their fingers and hands next to this chain as it jumped about under tension on the gypsy (wheel shaped part that the chain fits into) of the windlass. Once common sense prevailed they decided the most sensible option was for them to run out some slack and reverse in beside us until they could get a diver arranged. This they did the next day with the diver bringing the anchor up with an air bag and the owner bringing up the slack chain with the windlass.

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It was good having a bit of time to enjoy Barcelona before we flew home on the Sunday night and there were some interesting boats in the marina area one of these being replica of a Spanish Galleon which was open to visitors.

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This turned out to be more a sort of beach type holiday using Sun Dog for accomodation but it was lovely to feel the sun again, because lets face facts – it ain’t been out much in the UK so far this year!

However really important note to self……no more boat work during any holiday!!

Amazing Photo

Thought I would share this amazing photograph “El Barquero” by Tino Rovira.

Lone fisherman on his boat, beautiful sunset/sunrise, jet trails in the sky………………………..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67317934@N04/7182954138/

Reyce; Barca v Real Madrid

This weekend I had the pleasure of flying out to Barcelona with Reyce (grandson) for the El Classico game in the Camp Nou – flying over the mountains Reyce managed to get a couple of good photos;

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Trying to secure tickets for this game had proven to be a task and a half, and cutting a long long story short our friend Nico managed through one of his friends, for us to use some of their family season tickets for the game. Big big thanks to Nico from the both of us.

On the morning we bought our T10 tickets for the underground and went up to Camp Nou to have a look around the stadium. We had booked to do the tour on Sunday so we could avoid the main crowds in the stores etc. These T10 tickets had a habit of moving from my pockets to Reyce’s all during the weekend :-)……private joke!

Reyce in front of the stadium in line with where our seats were…

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and this was his first glimpse of the inside of the stadium through the main doors of the stadium

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We then headed off for something to eat and get ready for the game at night. To get the tickets we were told to meet Alberto, wait for it, outside the Princess Sofia Hotel just up from the stadium – bear in mind there were thousands and thousands of fans and also we had never met each other before. However through mobile phone calls and patience we finally met Alberto and his cousin David at the newspaper stand next to the hotel (phew) and set off for the stadium nice and early to enable Reyce to soak up the pre match atmosphere.

Stadium filling,

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Reyce with Alberto and his cousin David (?)

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Stadium full with fans holding up coloured cards to show the Catalan Flag;

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Then the build up to the long awaited kick off;

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Despite Barca losing 2-1 and the rain clouds dropping copius amounts on top us during the game it was a marvelous experience and sharing it with such a lovely grandson made it all the more special. Alberto and his cousin have also to be commended for being so thoughtful towards a couple of strangers and once again confirms there is more good in the world than bad.

Next day we were back at Camp Nou to purchase some gifts for back home and to go through the museum, stadium tour and see some major trophies, such as European Cup

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Loe Messi’ Golden Boot etc

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Then round the stadium and into the changing room…………and who knows what the future will hold for Reyce ??

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Really good day and we look forward to visiting Camp Nou again at some time in the future

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So all and all a long weekend for me to remember/treasure with a fabulous grandson; with the added bonus that it was filled with lots of laughter and fun – thanks Reyce 🙂

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Sun Dog’s new coat

Wheelhouse doors stripped back to bare wood and varnished both sides. Other brightwork stripped and varnished.

Sara and I are absolutely delighted with the final results of the boat prepared and painted by Paradocks Painting in Barcelona. (Contact number for Peter is 0034 677 216783)

Here are a few shots of the hull being prepared before being painted with Awlgrip Flag Blue, this being the closest match to the original colour.

Hull primed and filled – as you can see there were a few scrapes and scratches that needed filled

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Hull finished – what a difference – only the masking tape to come off!!

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Hull names were via Funky Monkey Boat Names – excellent service.

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Topsides and superstructure were fully prepared, then painted with Awlgrip Seattle Grey and Awlgrip Oyster White (some of the masking tape had still to be removed when these shots were taken)

The wheelhouse roof was sanded back prepared then coated with Loctite 34986 before being given a few coats of non slip deck paint.
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With the extensive refurb in 2004, followed by the investment in upgrading with new equipment since we bought Sun Dog in 2007, the painting of the boat was the final piece in the jigsaw. We now not only have a safe and comfortable boat, but now one that looks superb and will do so for many years to come. The investment in having her repainted using Awlgrip is worth it, because Sun Dog is a unique, rugged, and tough boat that really would be hard to replace.

Barcelona – back home

Having returned from Italy we have enjoyed the sights and sounds of Barcelona where there appears to be festivals being held regularly in different areas of the city and it’s always surprising what you can spot if you look up…….might be Shergar!!

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Today we flew back home after having had an amazing time together, enjoying new experiences and meeting some lovely people along the way. It’s also been lovely to receive the text messages and e-mails from family and friends, they meant a lot so a big thank you from the both of us.

On Pontoon B in Port Vell we had a real International contingent:

Nico (Argentinian) who was so helpful in being our unofficial translater, and also liaising on our behalf with various local engineers to get some work carried out on Sun Dog, and is a really lovely human being.
Nico, Sara and I went up to the Fastnet Pub to watch the Argentina V Scotland in the Rugby World Cup at the end of which Nico was extremely happy after a game of real tension.

Pete (AKA Chemical Pete) & Debbie (South African) with whom we had some good laughs, and funnily enough they were heading to Scotland for their daughters wedding in Edinburgh. Top couple and again really friendly and helpful.

Marcus & Kathrin (German) who sadly had lost their mast when the standing rigging gave way and the mast mainsail etc all ended up in the water – thankfully all onboard came through unscathed – and yet another lovely couple.

With Sara being English and me Scottish it was real international grouping of friends who all got along famously – shame that this is not replicated across the globe. However it was a great finale for our trip.

Some friends have asked “what was the highlight of the trip”? – but this has been an impossible question to answer.

However one key point of the trip, for me, was when we were sailing from Kinsale to the Isles of Scilly, as this was Sara’s first overnight trip and the weather Gods could have been a wee bit kinder! Thankfully she stood her watch, and really enjoyed the experience thus allowing us to carry on with the trip…….quite a memorable leg for me.

We both agree that the best decision we made was not to have any destination in mind and simply enjoy the journey; which we have done, with the added bonus of being able to enjoy family joining us along the way.

So sadly no more relaxed sailing under a blue sky for a while……….but it’s been a simply superb adventure that has surpassed all expectation.

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Sorrento & The Island of Capri

Today we set off by train to Sorrento which was only about ½ hour away from Pompei (or Pompeii) as there appears to be two ways of spelling this town.

We didn’t know that Sorrento was on cliffs, but as ever we migrated down to the port which was really busy – but it’s not really suitable for yachts.

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Coastline off Sorrento

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As the Island of Capri was only a short ferry ride away we decided to go over for a quick look around. Now in our heads we had visualised Capri as being a lovely quite undeveloped island. Boy did we get a shock as it was absolutely manic with throngs of people and nonstop ferry traffic bringing more people in and others leaving……..pop went our wee bubble!

Arriving at Capri

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The local Taxi’s are kind of neat with their bimini’s instead of roofs!

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While in a cafe we got chatting to a couple from Brisbane in Australia, and they suggested as we were only over for the day to get a ½ hour boat trip to the Blue Grotto where you transfer into small rowing boats and go through a really low entrance into the Grotto. We weighed up going round Capri town, but with the place being so busy we opted for the Blue Grotto.

This turned out to be a lot of fun, as the boat took us along the coastline where there are no roads, and we duly arrived and had to wait for our turn to get into a tiny rowing boat and had to sit on the floor, both for ballast and balance and also lie back to get in through this really low entrance.

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As you can see from the following photo it’s easy to see how it gets its name.

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The other thing that was neat today was seeing the “Royal Clipper” as I remember watching a TV programme about this boat, and how an old steel boat was purchased and then lengthened. It’s quite remarkable that the square rig is fully electronic and controlled via a console with no need for hands to go up the masts. The last two masts double up as funnels and I think it would cost a pretty penny or two for a holiday aboard her……

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Really good day, but we were both a bit tired after walking about Rome and Pompei so it was a really nice change to have an easy day.

Pompeii – by train

Our train trip from Rome to Naples on the regional train was only 10.50 euros each and took around two hours. The faster train which only takes one hour costs 45 euros each. Then the train from Naples to Pompeii was only 2 euros each – so all in all 12.50 euros per person from Rome to Pompeii – really good value.

We had booked ourselves into the Forum Hotel which is really handy as it’s only about 100 metres from the entry to the Pompeii site, and if you are ever visiting it’s a hotel we would happily recommend.

We spent the whole of today walking around Pompeii and were amazed at, not only the scale of the site, but also how much of it remains intact and some of it with so such detail still remaining.

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The way the city managed it’s whole plumbing system was quite remarkable, and from the following photo you can see through the exposed part of the wall, one of the water pipes.

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Also up on one of the walls, there was an ornamental Amphora (?) which was adorning the front of a house that still survives to this day whilst the one next to it has been broken off at some time, we both thought this was quite incredible.

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Then we came across one of the most amazing things; window shutters that have “turned to stone” and are still in situ….

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The bodies that were uncovered during the excavation, and are part of the tourist bit we both found to be a bit macarbe – but they do form part of the “Pompeii experience”.

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It was really hot again today and you might think I’m pulling your leg, but there is a Cafeteria in the middle of the site – all modern and noisy like a works canteen. However there is a much better option than going here for refreshments/food and that is to go to Villa dei Misterie and just outside there is a delightful family run restaurant all shaded and cool – really good atmoshpere and food.

Finally here is Mount Vesuvius which caused this tragedy on 24th August 79AD, and lets hope it sleeps forever.

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