Sailing Blog

For the last couple of years I have kept Sun Dog up at Loch Creran and during the summer it is has been fantastic to be able to get out past Ardnamurchan Point and up North. However the drive up there in the winter to carry out work etc was falling into the “getting too hard” category. Therefore I decided to move her back down to the Clyde and base her at Largs for the winter thus making access for maintenance etc a bit easier. Let’s face it, it’s easy enough to move back up there in a couple of days in the spring.

My brother David agreed to help me move her back down, and his sons Kris and Richard helped greatly by volunteering to pick me up at Largs Marina (where I was leaving my car) and drive David and I up to Loch Creran……….very much appreciated guys, especially as I believe your drive back was somewhat challenging!!

Anyhow David and I loaded up Sun Dog and decided to move down to Oban while there was still light and picked up a spare mooring at The Oban Bay Moorings next to the sailing club. The next morning we had a bit of time to kill before setting off to reach Fladda Lighthouse at slack water, so we went ashore for a good old fry up breakfast at McT’s (I assume formerly McTavishes Kitchen?) on the promenade – not healthy fodder I know, but very tasty non the less.

Back on board we started heading south down towards Fladda with David enjoying himself on the helm.

We motored down in calm conditions, with excellent visibilty, and had a good view of the Garvellach Islands an interesting group of islands yet to be explored properly by us.

From there it was over to Fladda and down the sound of Luing (Ling) where we had a decision to make.

We either headed straight down and through Dorus Mor and then over to Crinan, or we headed over to the north end of Jura to Kinuachdrachd where our mum was raised. This meant cutting across the eastern side of Corryvreckan on spring tides, but as visiting this area was important to both of us and the tide was ebbing in an easterly direction we decided to head over to Kinuachdrachd. There are no roads into Kinuachdrachd and the only way in is by special arrangement with the land owner in his own Landrover or arrive by boat. A few years back Sara and I tried to reach here by motorbike (from where the tarmac road ends) but after a few miles we realised that despite out best attempt we couldn’t make it two up on a road bike. That said it would have been relatively straightforward solo on an “off road bike” – even two up it would have been OK but we couldn’t risk a puncture……….can you imagine the call to the RAC/AA!!………could you just repeat exactly where you are sir?????

Plan “A” was to anchor and go ashore, but there is an obstruction listed on the charts where we would have wanted to drop the hook; so we then considered plan “B”, which was for David to go ashore in the dinghy and me staying on Sun Dog. However the effects of the tide was increasing noticeably so we resolved to move to plan “C” ; which was to head inshore as far a possible with David taking video shots and photographs with yours truly on the helm.

It was really neat to have been so close to this place which was so special to our Mum & nice to do so with another member of the family – it would have been even better if all the immediate family and Dad could all have been there at the same time, but there again I suppose they were, only not physically.

From here we could have headed straight across to Crinan, but David fancied heading through Dorus Mor, so we headed back up with David back on the helm to satisfy his desire to go thro’ the islands, and we kept Reisa an Struith to port and Garbh Reisa to starboard to head for the western entrance through Dorus Mor. The effects of the tide were naturally getting much stronger with eddies and upwellings (these are always amazing sights) and at one point one of these “grabbed us” and turned us almost ninety degrees to our course! David was calm as ever and I can say that I never heard any expletives being uttered ……..perhaps because my hearing let me down at that point!

Once we had enough northing in our course we turned to starboard and into Dorus Mor where we popped out the other side doing in excess of 9 knots and headed over to pick up a mooring for the night at Crinan. I did however notice a rather sizeable smile of David’s face as the boat was gathering speed………which in turn made me smile.

For those that don’t know the Crinan Canal was originally built to save the fishing fleet then later Puffers, having to go all the way down south and rounding the Mull of Kintyre to get their hauls to market. Today it is still used by some fishing boats but the majority of traffic is pleasure vessels.

Next morning we were straight into the sea lock at 0845 and were informed that we were the only boat going through this morning so we could if we wanted make a fast transit of the canal.

The foam at the stern of Sun Dog followed us in from the Sea Lock and I have no idea how this was caused – unless of course David had been heavy handed with the Fairy Liquid!!

David hadn’t been through any canal locks before and yet he did really well in handling the lines at this lock, and as turns out all the others along the canal – he never so much as dropped a line in the water once.

Whilst it would have been possible for us to get through the canal in one day, we decided that we would park up at the pontoons at Cairnbaan and have a shower etc at the British Waterways facilities, before having a meal ashore at the Cairnbaan Hotel and an early night to catch up on some zzzzz’s.

Next morning we were up early had breakfast and away at 0830, as it had been agreed with the British Waterways staff that this would be the time we would depart and they would therefore have someone ready to open the Oakfield Bridge further down the canal at 0900. As we approached the road bridge it began to open and the run through the rest of the locks was straightforward enough, apart from a little rain, right through to the sea lock at Ardrishaig, where we sorted out the paper work with the ever helpful British Waterways Staff.

When we exited into Loch Fyne we were hoping for a good sail but as ever Murphy’s Law intervened and we had the wind straight on the nose, but we hoisted the mainsail and motorsailed down the Loch until we turned at Ardlamont Point and into the Kyles of Bute where we did manage to have a good sail for an hour or so with the wind on the quarter, until we reached the top of the Kyle where once again the wind was on the nose.

From there David motored us through the Burnt Isles at Colintraive and on down the other Kyle, across Rothesay Bay, round the north end of Big Cumbrae, and into Largs Marina at around 1800. It had been a reasonably long day for both of us and I was very much relieved and happy that my car was parked at Largs Marina as the thought of having to go back up the Oban road and back again (5/6 hrs return trip) by car to collect my own was somewhat less than appealing (sic) – again my sincere thanks and appreciation goes out to Richard and Kris for driving us up to the boat so that i could leave my car at Largs. Thanks lads.

Naturally my thanks and appreciation also goes out to my brother David for taking the time out to help me get the boat back down and into the Clyde before the weather window closed. Many thanks bro – that’s another one I am due you.

Meantime I pinched the following idea from John’s Blog on Swagman – it’s a simple but neat way to highlight any route, and I might work backwards on the blog and insert similar against certain trips.

This picture is too small but if you click the photo and when it opens in a new page click “all sizes” at the top left hand corner and it will open a larger picture.

With the school holidays and available weekends running out we managed to arrange a weekend away with two of my Grandsons, Prentice and Reyce. Prentice starts High School after the holidays with Reyce going into his final year at Primary School.

This weekend the boys could choose what they wanted to do and their unanimous decision was to head for the boat and do some fishing, so we headed off to the boat on Friday with enough time before dark to get down to Oban Bay where we would have a few options should the weather prove as miserable as the forecast.

Friday night the weather was OK and the boys were out with their rods and enjoying themselves with Reyce landing the first of many.

During Friday night the rain came down heavily and it was still raining albeit lighter on the Saturday, but the boys dedication to their sport never waivered one iota………on they fished.

As they were getting wet we decided that when the rain eased we would go into Oban town and get them waterproof trousers and welly boots, which we did and also had the most amazing Fish & Chips out of the George Street chippie………….Sara and I were in agreement that these were the best ever – highly recommended for ofishionados.

Reyce getting soaked before going ashore but he cared not a jot

Then it was back to Sun Dog and on with the important business of the weekend;

They fished from the bow;

They also fished from the stern leaving no inch of the sea around us safe for the fish – with Prentice continuing their success.

…and so it went on till dark o’clock on Saturday evening.

Next morning we awoke to a whole different day, warm clear (ish) skies – a perfect day for ………fishing!!

With another spell of fishing the tally continued to rise with Prentice catching the final fish in Oban Bay, which seemed fair as Reyce caught the first one.

Then it was sadly a case of “lines in lads” as we had to start making tracks back home………..from the dinghy I asked the question how was the weekend lads?

It also has to said that although the boys caught loads of fish, they were man enough to release them all, apart that is from the ones that were caught on Sunday which we enjoyed for lunch.

Smashing weekend with a smashing couple of lads – thanks guys.

Our plan this year was (weather permitting) to head out past Ardnamurchan point and hopefully get to Plockton, then further north, possibly across to the Shiant Isles to see the Puffins/over to the Western Isles. Some time, though not this year, we would love to get a suitable weather window to visit St Kilda.

For my non Scotland based friends I have included some links within this blog to places that might be of of interest, so that when you finally come up here you may have an idea or three as to where you would like to go, and what you would like to see and do. These links might also just be of general interest, and hopefully they will provide a wee bit of general information/overview on these particular areas to those who cannot make it in person.

18/19th July

We headed up to the boat with a car full of the usual boatie type stuff along with the main food provisions for the holiday, however with it being holiday time the main road up towards Oban was very busy with cars towing caravans. Some (not all) of these drivers fail to have the simplest understanding of basic courtesy, they insist on continuing to drive along slowly, even though there is a queue of dozens of vehicles building up behind them, who, due to the narrow bending roads cannot safely overtake. Simply by pulling into a layby and letting the long queue they have created pass them could endear themselves a bit more to everyone stuck in the queue for mile after mile……..almost of on a full blown rant there but the sheer ignorance is at times mind blowing!!

When we finally arrived at Loch Creran we had the get the dinghy launched and do all the runs back and forward out to the mooring. I also has a bit of a fresh water leak that had to be found and fixed, so by the time we had everything sorted out it was quite late. So much so that the next day we decided to simply enjoy a day on the mooring and do some reading/general unwinding.

20th/21st July

Heading out of Loch Creran there is a narrow (ish) channel where the tide runs at some 4kts+ at spring tides and the combination of this plus a shallow ledge, can, especially in a wind against tide situation be provide a somewhat lively exit/entrance. In our case today it was the “liveliest” I had ever seen it and I was quite happy when we exited the worst of the chop.

As ever when on hols the wind always seems to be coming from the direction we wish to travel, and today was no exception so we motor sailed down to the gap at Lady Rock and Eilean Musdile at the south end of Lismore which leads into the sound of Mull. (good photo in the link) As planned when we reached this part the tide was at slack water as this can also get really lumpy and on the way through the gap we passed a ship being loaded by helicopter from Eilean Musdile so we stayed well clear.

As we changed direction from SW to NW we had a good strong breeze building and thus a good sail up the sound of Mull, with the winds gusting off the hills and squalls hitting 30kts +. Sara was on the inside helm and I was outside controlling the sheets etc and we worked well as a team considering this was out first real outing this year.

When we reached Tobermory, another location where the Crown Estate has invested monies and provided the town with a small marina with the associated shower and laundry blocks which I have to say were very clean and tidy. There are also mooring buoys for visitors and whilst no magazine including the excellent publication Welcome Anchorages in Scotland (available free from Chandleries etc), actually states how these can be identified. Therefore if ever you are sailing into Tobermory, the visitors mooring buoys and painted blue with a white top and they have galvanised chain with a yellow pick up buoy.

When we arrived we couldn’t believe how busy it was and as there were no moorings free we called the number listed and enquired about a berth in the marina, and were told that if we could find one just take it as they were so busy and non of the available berths would be owned by locals!!

Well as luck would have it we found one close inshore which was a bit hidden from out in the bay, so in we went and tied up.

Turns out the reason Tobermory was so busy with boats was due to the Classic Malts event and also the annual muster (?) of Clyde Cruising Club. We chatted to the couple tied alongside us who were heading back home from their hols and they had limited their sailing area due to the weather forecasts, and in their opinion somewhat strange weather conditions.

As the forecast was again for F7 winds we didn’t really fancy rounding Arnamurchan Point in these kind of conditions so we decide to stay a further day in Tobermory and go and stretch our legs on the coastal walk to Aros Park.

The weather forecast proved to be a bit of an ongoing conundrum because the day actually turned out to be a calm and lovely warm summers day, and the walk itself was lovely with some beautiful spots along the way as can be seen in the shots below.

22nd July

The forecast was for F4/5 from the south which would be fine for us, so out we headed with another few yachts who were also heading north and into seas that can only be described as flat calm, thereby rounding Arnamurcham Point the most westerly point of the UK mainland, (yes strange as it may first seem even further west than Cornwall) was a lovely relaxing experience.

However as Ardnamurchan Point is difficult to reach by road and a long way for some by sea, I thought the following photo of the lighthouse on the point might be of interest.

As there was no real breeze we simply hoisted the main and fired up the engine and had a lovely time heading past the Islands of Muck and Eigg with Rum towering above them in the background. The Cuillins of Skye were also clearly seen albeit they were a bit of a distance away from us with only a banner cloud on the highest peak. Our plan was to head for Loch Nevis pick up a mooring at the Old Forge and have an evening meal ashore. The Old Forge is recognised as the remotest pub in mainland Britain and cannot be accessed by road, only by sea or a hell of a long walk!!

The moorings laid by the hotel were very busy and since my last trip in here there is also a new pier to the left of the Old Forge as you look at it from the sea. However we eventually found a spare one and went ashore in the dinghy only to be told as they were so busy that we could either get a table now – or one at 2130 – now seemed good – so we had an incredibly tasty seafood platter then back to Sun Dog to stretch out. It never ceases to amaze me that somewhere so remote can be so busy, but there again the food is so good and seafood so fresh, with helpful friendly staff, that perhaps I shouldn’t be!

23rd July

Our plan today was to head for Plockton, but we had to get our timing right at Kyle Rhea the narrow stretch of water between the mainland and the Isle of Skye where the tide runs at around 8kts at springs, and we were pretty much on spring tides so timing was vital to avoid having to wait for the next tide.

We had enough time that we could either get showered up at the facilities at the Old Forge or, en route to Kyle Rhea we could pick up a mooring and go ashore to use the facilities at the Hotel Eilean Iarman at Isle Ornsay on Skye a hotel we had so many good things about but hadn’t stayed in or visited before. It’s tucked away in a sheltered sea loch so that was the chosen option so it was goodbye to Inverie.

On the approach to Isle Ornsay you can begin to see the rooftops of the hotel hidden behind the headland as you approach up the Sound of Sleat. You can’t really miss this bay as there is a lighthouse on the Sound Of Sleat side providing an illuminating location marker.

We went ashore in the dinghy landing it on the beach at the old pier, and the Hotel happily provided a room for us to have full use of baths/showers etc -really lovely hotel and one that we must visit again. The charge for using the facilities including the use of their towels was a total of only £13, which in my opinion wasn’t too bad considering they had to clean out the bathroom again for the next guests.

As it was spring tides, by the time we got back to the dinghy it was quite a way from the waters edge and we had to lift it down to the water – however the water was so shallow for so long that I couldn’t float the dinghy with us in it (inflatable keel) and had to walk it out for a fair distance, and I’m sure that if anyone was looking at us from the shore they would have thought I was either walking on water, or taking the dinghy for an afternoon walk!

Anyhow back on board Sun Dog we were pretty much bang on time to depart and reach Kyle Rhea at slack water, so off we went feeling refreshed and invigorated, and when we reached the entrance to Kyle Rhea we were looking for the overfalls which give a clear indication on how the water is moving, and verifying our time calculation. There was also a Swedish yacht circling around waiting to go through and it was obvious that they were waiting on us to go through first. I knew we were good to go, albeit when it comes to narrow passages with fast moving tidal streams there is always a little bit of a nagging voice in your head saying “I hope I’ve worked this out right” ….so of we went through the narrowish channel with the Swedish yacht following in my wake (little did he know it was my first time) and as I said previoulsly we were bang on time so it was a straightforward passage. There would have been no real drama if I had the calculations wrong, as we would simply have turned back and anchored to wait on the next tide.

This link shows a good photo of the car ferry across the Kyle, but it does make it look somewhat wider than it appeared as it is looking south down the Sound of Seat. When we exited Kyle Rhea and could see the Skye bridge in the distance and I had one of those little frissons of excitment because of where we were with Sun Dog………

Decision time again, question was do we stop at one of the facilities on either side of the Kyle of Lochalsh or do we head around the headland for Plockton? Our decision was to keep going as the conditions were favourable and we were only a couple of hours away with plently of daylight hours left.

We arrived in Plockton after more rock dodging and then in past the lighthouse.

We picked up a mooring buoy provided by the townsfolk of Plockton for visitors and these are paid for at any of the shops/hotels by way of an honesty system. These moorings can be easily identified as they are painted yellow and have a black “V” painted on them.

There are two pontoons available for use by dinghies, but you need to be mindful that these are in constant use by commecial boats and should not be obstruced. The one furthests into the bay dries out at low water whilst the one on your starboard side as you enter the loch has sufficient water that you can leave the dingy knowing it will still be floating when you get back.

We have been in Plockton loads of time on the motorbike, but it was extremely satisfying arriving by sea and by doing so this offered a hugely different perspective from arriving by road.

24th July

When we went ashore we managed to find a laundry and got all the clothes all washed and dried whilst we enjoyed a fantastic seafood meal at the Plockton Inn, and then reprovisioned from the local shop where I felt a bit let down as they had no Ginger Nuts biscuits left in stock

Once back on board however there was however a bit of a “excitment” as we heard on CH16 a yacht advising the coast guard that their engine wouldn’t work and that they planned to sail into Plockton. The coast guard asked their position and was told they were approaching Plockton Rocks, next thing we heard was that the inshore lifeboat from Kyle of Lochalsh was on it’s way to assist them onto a visitors mooring if one was available or indeed to help them manouvre into a suitable anchorage. There was no real drama in this, but prior to the announcment that the inshore lifeboat was on it’s way, at least 5 yachts must have passed this yacht before they entered the bay at Plockton. I can only imagine that they didn’t have their radios on or they would surely have heard the announcment from the boat and could have gone alongside to offer assistance or indeed a tow and thus avoid the lifeboat being given a shout…..There again perhaps they did and the skipper declined!

25th July

The forecast was not looking so good for us heading further north and indeed was not looking good for a few days with F7/F8 from the south/south west being predicted. We decided that we would start heading back down south as we could get back through Kyle Rhea again this morning at around 1000 and this would leave most of the day to consider our options.

We could have gone into Isle Ornsay as this would offer good shelter from the S/SW, or indeed go back into Loch Nevis. Going into Arisaig was sadly not an option as we couldn’t get there at the right stage of the tide, we would have needed to wait until around 2100. Another option was to go over to Rum as we wanted to visit Kinloch Castle, – a fascinating place, but the down side to this was that we would have had fair old bash south and had to contend with Ardnamurchan point in a forecast F7/8 if the weather forecast proved to be accurate – not a particularly appealing option.

Using the old adage, “if in doubt bottle out” we decided to head straight back down to Tobermory which would offer us good shelter, and we would also be safely back round Arnamurchan Point. This meant we could explore Loch Sunart even if the weather was poor and thus not lose any days because of poor weather. This was a pretty long day and as we were approaching Ardnamurcham point the wind was increasing and the clouds getting darker and darker on the horizon. This time round in Tobermory there were a few free spaces in the marina so we simply went in and parked up. We then went for a shower, cooked some food and had a good old nights sleep. The winds did pick up for a time during the night but again nothing to cause any real concern

26th July

This morning we decided to go over to Loch Sunart (past more unmarked jaggy rocks) and either anchor in one of the lochs offering shelter from the south or nip into Salen and then go ashore for a meal in the local Salen Hotel which is meant to be good but we have no personal experience.

The sail through Loch Sunart was delightful (without doubt this loch has a bit of an atmosphere all of it’s own) as most of the anchorages were busy we went into Salen and picked up a visitors mooring, which was a bit of a palaver as there was no pick up buoy, it was low (spring) tide and space was tight – furthermore the wind was increasing at a fair old pace. However Sara managed to get a line on from the bow round to the side decks where she lay down and threaded the mooring line through the buoy and then secured it again at the bow. I then nipped out in the dinghy and put on a heavier nylon line as the wind was blowing harder right on the nose. With the two lines secured the owner of the mooring came out in his wee dinghy to see if we needed anything and to aoplogise that he was on his break when we came in, as normally he comes out and gives visitors a hand to get a line onto the buoys. Nice chap really friendly and helpul. As the wind was rising all the time we decided not to go ashore and walk to the hotel in the driving rain, and instead spent a rocking and rolling night on the mooring, so no visit to the Salen Hotel this time around.

27th July

We left Salen in the morning to head back once again to Tobermory – (by this time it was becoming Toberbory) – but the forecast was for a full F8 from the SW and this necessitated shelter and another overnight this time on a visitors buoy.

28th July

We decided to leave Tobermory and head back down the Sound of Mull and it was a wee bit breezy on the way down with 35kts across the decks at times, but the new mainsail duly reefed down worked a treat and we made good progress down to Loch Aline where we popped in to have a look and considered stopping overnight. However the best shelter is in the SE corner and this is now occupied with moorings (not visitors ones) and makes anchoring a bit of a concern that one might get caught up in the ground mooring chains etc. The other anchorages already had boats at anchor so we decided to leave and head for Dunstaffnage Marina.

As we approached the gap between Eilean Musdile and Lady Rock we could see a wall of white water reaching right across to the Mull coastline. I don’t have sufficient local knowledge to know if there was possibly a gap in this close inshore, but decided to punch through under engine, well in truth it wasn’t a case of punching through as the tide was taking us through whether we wanted to or not………..but it’s amazing just how steep these wind against tide waves reach. We could see quite clearly that the main lumpiness would clear within a few hundered yards, which it did do and we then had a rolly old ride with the sea on the beam (ish) all the way over to Dunstaffnage.

Now I have to say that Dunstaffnage Marina have never really (in my honest opinion) excelled at good customer service, indeed years back when I enquired about taking an annual berth you would have thought I been asking to eat one of their children. This wasn’t me overeacting at the time because Sara feels the exact same, which is a pity really because the staff at the Wide Mouth Frog restaurant are very good.

Anyhow we phoned them to ask about a possible berth for at least one night and we were informed to go into any that were free – this seemed strange because we could have been taking a residents berth; but then I remembered that Kerrera Marina operate on a principle of non dedicated berths even for those with annual contracts, so I reckoned it would be a similar situation.

In to the marina we went – spotted a free berth and in we went to tie up; just missing a torrential downpour in the process and put the kettle on for a well earned cuppa. I then thought it might be prudent to advise the marina office of the berth we had taken so gave them a call. It was once again that their interpretation of customer service came back to fore as they intially wanted me to move to another pontoon, and when I asked two questions:

No1 being ” what berth on that pontoon do you wish me to take”…………they asked if I could see any that we free on that pontoon which was at the other end of the marina from us!!

No2 being ” If you wanted me to go to that pontoon why did you not advise when we called earlier?”…….answer it’s OK you can stay where you are as we are not to busy!!!!!

Now is it just me?????????????????????????????

When we went to go up for a shower and pay our lawfull debts the offices were closed, and there was a notice on the shower/toilet block that these were for the use of berth owners but that the key could be obtained from the office or restaurants subject to a £20 deposit.

Again is it just me or is this ancient thinking – can they not simply have a key pad entry system?

We simply laughed at the madness of Dunstaffnage and went for meal at the Wide Mouthed Frog – …………….an oasis in a sea of madness.

Pity really because it’s in a great location with Dunstaffnage Castle close to the marina, a castle steeped in history and according to some historians, once the resting place of the Stone of Destiny. Perhaps one day things may change……………………………………

28/29th July

Suffice to say we had no intention of providing them with any more of our hard earned pennies and headed round the corner to Oban and decided to take up one the new visitors moorings provided by Oban Bay Berthing to encourage visitors to the town. These moorings are just north of Oban Sailing Club, painted yellow with a black “V” painted on them, and no pick up buoys attached the photograph in the link should give a good guide as to their location. There is also a handy pontoon provided for short alongside stops/dinghies and it’s only a short walk from the town, with payment by way of an honesty box on the pontoon and it’s only £12 per night.

These moorings are arranged in three trots of five with the inside trots for boats around 10m LOA, the middle trot boats around 11m LOA and the outside trot for boats around 12m LOA.

If you wanted to travel to Oban in style there is a Seaplane that operates from Glasgow and lands you at the marina at the island of Kerrera just across Oban bay.

Oban has a lot of Caledonian MacBrayne ferry traffic and they do announce their arrival/departure on Channel 16 as a local byelaw gives them all rights in Oban Bay…..in other words keep out of their way whether under sail or engine. The photo below shows one of the ferries passing below McCaigs Folly which sits above Oban.

30th July

With more strong winds forecast we decided to do a clockwise loop of Lismore Island en route to Port Appin and on the way up Lock Linnhe on the Morvern side is Glensanda Quarry which is huge and you might get a bit of an impression from the photo’s on this link, with no road access which means everthing is transported in by boat and the material out by large vessels.

We went round the north end of Lismore and took up a mooring just off the Pier House restaurant where we went ashore and paid for shower facilities (they also have a sauna available) booked a table for a meal and had an amazing seafood platter, a wee bit expensive but just so fresh – lovely.

31st July

Woke up to a beautiful sunny morning had a lazy breakfast wondering where the forecast F8 had gone and then departed Port Appin and meandered back into Loch Creran onto our mooring and the end of a smashing holiday.

As we were doing all the runs ashore the wind was picking up to around 25kts so with everything stowed back into the car it was back home, and that night it really did blow a bit.

The weather during our two weeks was pretty peculiar with the reality being different from the forecast, however it didn’t in any way spoil our holiday, which was marked by us visiting so many new places and it also included a record number of books read; and sadly like all good holidays was over far too soon.

Since bringing Sun Dog ashore in September 2008 she has benefitted from the following upgrading work.

New tan mainsail (Owen Sails)
New tan stackpack (Owen Sails)
Cage built over gas heater vent to prevent genoa sheets fouling.
All winches including mast winches renewed to Lewmar self tailers apart from the mainsheet winch, as it’s better being a standard winch.
New stainless steel grab rails manufactured for the sides of the wheelhouse.
New teak block made for under the mast and also for the reefing winch.(what a job finding solid Burmese teak!)
Underside cleaned and anti-fouled with new main anode plus bow thruster anodes replaced.
Renewed the top guardwire on both sides.
New bilge pump.
Rubber buffer cleaned prepared as per Sika techincal dept advice and re-sealed top and bottom with Sika 291 to prevent water ingress and subsequent staining of the hull.
Prop cleaned and polished.
Brightwork varnished.

Sara and I were taking my grandsons Reyce and Prentice (brothers) with us on holiday with the outline plan (a) being to go up to Ardrishaig – through the Crinan Canal and meander up to Oban. If the boys were unhappy or bored we could then get them back via the train from Oban, and if they were happy we would simply continue with the holiday.

We arrived down at Troon on the Saturday morning, but the weather was pretty grim so we couldn’t leave, and sadly the same was the case on the Sunday so we took the boys by car up to Largs for the day so they could have some fun in the amusements etc.

Monday morning arrived and the weather was improving but the sea was still a wee bit lumpy, Scott from the marina knew we were setting off for the canal and came down onto the pontoon to tell us that there was some issue at the Crinan Canal and that it was now closed – it really was very kind of him to come down and let us know – cheers Scott.

Reyce making a final call to his mum Debbie prior to leaving Troon – Prentice had just finished doing the same.

I gave the Crinan office a call and the chap said their had been a bit of a collapse in the sea lock at Crinan and the engineers and divers were on their way to assess the situation, but he couldn’t say whether this would mean the canal was going to be closed for days or weeks. The only real alternatives were (a)to cancel the holiday for the boys, (didn’t fancy this as we were all looking forward to the holiday) (b) sail through the north channel (via Campbeltown) between the Mull of Kintyre and Ireland, or (c) wait to see what the outcome of the engineers findings were regarding the canal.

To go from Troon to Campbeltown on the Monday would have meant having a rolly old ride (seas would have been on the beam) in F4/5 conditions which would not be the ideal conditions for the boys at the start of their hols, therefore I took the decision that we would motorsail pretty much head to wind up to Portavadie for the night and then check with the canal again in the morning – the boys had a bit of a laugh going through the waves on the way up and this settled everyone down.

Boys taking turns on the helm.

Next morning I checked with the canal and the early indications were that the canal would not be fully operational for some time! As the weather was changing, the conditions meant that going round the Mull were favourable for today, so the decision was made – it would be a very long day for everyone. We would leave Portavadie immediately and be off Sanda Island at the turn of the tide and use this to assist in getting us over to Port Ellen on Islay.

The trip down Kilbrannan sound was pretty straight forward albeit the visibility could have been better, but we did have the option of going into Campbeltown for the night if we changed our mind. However when we reached the entrance to Campbeltown Loch the wind had indeed gone round as forecast to the south east, which meant we would have both wind and tide together in our favour, and also the sea condition was slight so we committed fully to going on to Islay.

The next decison was whether to take the inside route, which I have never taken or go south of Sanda Island into the main channel where the eddies/overfalls are less powerfull than they are inside, but there is the traffic seperation scheme for commercial vessels to contend with. Local knowledge for the inside channel says that you should always be close enough to the shore to be able to throw a digestive biscuit and hit the rocks on the shore.

It would be a bit quicker to go the inside route, and there were a fair number of yachts already heading for the inside route but with the visiblity still being pretty poor (at times down to a few hundered yards), and given we had no digestive biscuits to throw at the shore, I decided on the longer option so headed south past Paterson’s Rock and Sanda and into the main channel. We gradually started to benefit from the tide and by the time we were almost round the Mull, Sun Dog was belting along at 10 kts over the ground and the mist lifted enough that we could make out the Irish Coast and Rathlin Island.

Caption Competition could be …………Just remind me whose idea this was !!!!!! or Are we having fun yet?

Personally I would have liked the visibility to have been better but was happy that the God’s had decided to grant us a straightforward passage through an area that can, depending on conditions, be decidedly challenging – we were all happy and relieved that we only had another few hours until we reached Port Ellen in Islay.

With the Crinan canal being closed (there were as stated above,a lot of boats doing the same as us) Port Ellen’s marina was full when we arrived, so we decided to pick up a mooring buoy in the bay rather than drop anchor over in the sheltered bay………bit of a mistake !! After we had settled down and had our evening meal and the boys had finished fishing from the boat we all turned in early for a good nghts sleep, but the swell running into the bay had other ideas! Now I might not be the old man of the sea but I normally can sleep through most things on a boat – but not this night………………

The wind was strong enough to keep the boat head to wind which meant we had the joy of the Atlantic swell being on the beam and we had a terrible rolling motion – I could go on about this – but suffice to say I ended up slepping outside so that I could lie across the beam of the boat. It was so bad that I eventually wanted to drop the mooring and go and and anchor in a bay out of the worst of the swell at about 0200 but I won’t print what Sara said I could do with that idea!………

In the morning a certain angler was up early for a spot of fishing, and to enjoy a quiet moment in the now calm conditions.

After breakfast we decided to use the tide again and head for Craighouse on Jura which again we had to do under engine as there was no wind; but it was lovely to be under a warm blue sky and it was only a few hours until we were turning in past the Small Isles and picking up a mooring buoy close into the shore.

The bay has quite a number of mooring buoys for visitors and we are fortunate enough having a shallow enough draft to get the spare one near the shore on the 2m contour – which was fine for us as the forecast was for a period of settled weather so no waves to reduce the depth. We had to get ashore and get some provisions and also use the laundry facilities behind the Jura Hotel, so it was out with the dinghy and a bit of exercise with the pump, then over to the pontoon provided for dinghies at the pier. Jura is a large island with a population of slightly less that 200 people in total, so the facilities they provide are very good all things considered, and indeed should be supported. Cost for one night on the mooring was £10.

Also met a mate of Marcus & John (private joke)

Round the other side of the pier is a small safe and shallow sandy beach and the boys had a bit of a laugh splashing around in the water and practicing their rowing skills in about 2ft of water, and it was good that they were able to burn off some energy. When we eventually got back to the boat they had fun going for a swim and using the dingy as a swim/fun platform, and then fishing again in the evening – a really good day.

Next morning we set off for Crinan so that the boys could see the exit to the Crinan Canal that we would been at days ago if the canal had been open – but there again we would have missed out on the joys of going round the Mull, plus Islay & Jura.

Once again it was a lovely day – in fact I think it must have reached in excess of 30 C. The boys sat up the bow of the boat and also on the coachroof to take advantage of the breeze created by our movement and we were all entertained by porpoise on the way up the sound of Jura.

We got in touch with Crinan Boatyard to arrange fuel and a mooring, and the only spare mooring the had was on the south side which was fine by us, but we needed to get moving if we wanted fuel that night – a wee bit of pleading had them promise to stay open long enough for us to refuel as we were setting off with the tide early the next morning.

Once refuelled we did go past the entrance/exit to the canal, and it really did seem a bit strange to realise that had it been opened we would have been here days ago…….. anyhow we picked up the designated mooring buoy and once again the boys got out their fishing rods, while Sara and I were considering the next days possibilities.

We had to get through Doris Mor (Large Door) the next day as we were heading for Kerrera opposite Oban and could get there on the one tide (the tide turned at 0300) and according to the pilot book was at it’s strongest for the first couple of hours. We really didn’t want to wait at Crinan as the forecast was that winds were to increase to F5/6 from the NE within the next 24 hours and could last for a few days!

I awoke at 0430 and decided that we would get ready and head through Doris Mor and then up the sound of Luing (ling) and past Fladda Lighthouse by which point we would be through the strongest of currents.

Sara gave me a hand to get the boat ready and then quite rightly went back to bed. At the same time Reyce and Prentice came up as soon as they heard the engine fire up, and as ever popped on their lifejackets and then started pointing out the white waves on the shores of the island Garbh Reisa that forms part of Dorus Mor. Once again this was new territory as I hadn’t been through Dorus Mor previously, but I knew I was going through at the right time, with the tide, and knew to stay mid channel which we did and out we popped at 12 kts over the ground – the fastest Sun Dog has ever gone. I thought that 10 kts through the north channel was fast……………

Next point of close attention was the narrow channel at the head of the sound of Luing, and passing Fladda lighthouse the currents were pulling pretty hard and I was pleased that we had a decent sized engine and a big three bladed prop, that the tide was with us, and that we had at the time settled weather with calm conditions.

Doris Mor and this channel would no doubt be very interesting and different proposition (sic) in adverse conditions.

Once through the tricky bits the wind started to climb and soon we had 20kts true gusting 27kts on the nose, but I was a happy man as we were through the tricky bits before the wind had increased, and as Sun Dog has a lovely motion there was no drama or slamming. I also decided to go up the Sound of Kerrera and was momentarily confuddled by two starboard and one port hand marker halfway up – look at a chart and you will see what I mean. We entered into the bay where Oban Marina is located – it is actually on the island of Kerrera – and spotted a spare heavy mooring buoy which Sara picked up smartish in 25 kts of wind and got attached to Sun Dog. We then gave the marina a shout to tell them the number of the buoy we had picked up, and they said it was fine to stay there for a couple of days……….ticketyboo!

Oban Marina provide a couresty water taxi over to Oban town on an hourly basis and will also swing past and pick up people from boats on moorings and drop them back off when conditions are not ideal for rowing over to the marina itself. Only down side to this is, that whilst this is an hourly service, they are only allowed to take 12 passengers at any one time, albeit when really busy the do put on another boat – but it can cause a bit of angst when getting ashore or back to the marina in Kerrera during busy periods.

Thankfully we had no such drama, and whilst in Oban the boys bought new fishing gear (they do appear to have caught the fishing bug ) and we spent some time going round the shops and then going to the supermarket the following day to reprovision, and do yet another laundry at the Oban marina facilities. Where does all the food go, and where does all the laundry come from??

I think it’s fair to say that whilst I was sitting on the boat and having a moment to myself, I had a little frisson of excitment thinking that Sun Dog had come up from Ipswich with Marcus and I, then through the Forth & Clyde Canal with Sara and Eilidh, and had now had come the long way round to Oban from the Clyde with Sara, Reyce and Prentice……it was a really nice feeling.

Having arrived at Oban and spent a couple of days there until the weather calmed down again, we had the option of heading over towards Tobermory, Loch Sunart, Ardnamurchan Point direction – or taking the boys up to the Caledonian Canal where they would be busy with ropes etc and indeed more involved with the boat as per the original plan of taking them through the Crinan Canal.

After some discussion we decided this would probably be the best option, and after checking out the tides for the route and also with consideration being made for arrival time at the Corran Narrows (6kts at springs) we set off for Corpach which is slightly north of Fort William, passing en route the entrance to Loch Creran (pronounced kreeran) which would be our final destination and Sun Dog’s new home.

Passing through beween the north end of the island of Lismore and Port Appin on the mainland was kind of neat as there were a lot of jaggy rocks, all easily seen as it was close to low water, and as not all of the rocks are marked this required a fair amount of attention. This was a wee bit difficult at times with it all being so pretty, then it was on past Shuna Island up Loch Linnhe (pronounced Linny) and for me it was a treat to be able to see the Ballachulish Bridge (pronounced bala who lish) down Loch Leven; a bridge that has been crossed by us loads of times by motorbike and car so it was quite exciting (and different) to view it from the sea.

Once past here we had then to focus on the Corran Narrows where the ferries ply across this narrow fast running piece of water, we had the tide with us and fortunatly didn’t need to dodge any ferries in the narrows themselves, and popped out the other end doing about 9 kts. Once again we could feel the strength of the current pulling at the boat and trying to twist her around – and once again I was happy to have a big engine and prop to keep direction and control.

Arriving as we did at around HW at Corpach we gave the British Waterways office a call on the VHF and were told to go straight into the sea lock; which we did and were raised up to the level of the inner basin. Sara and I then went in to the office to fill out the necessary paper work, insurance etc and pay the fee of £173 for an 8 day pass whilst Reyce and Prentice were left in charge of Sun Dog.

Given that we did not have enough time to go all the way through to Inverness and get back down again we felt this charge was a bit high, but given that we had promised the boys, and it was an integral part of the holiday we had to grin and bear it……………well what else can you do!

A surprise bonus we had was my mate Ian had given me a call to say they Veronica and him were heading up on his new motorbike -Suzuki Hyabussa – and was looking to catch up with us, and perhaps even stay over for a night in a local hotel/B&B. The British Waterways staff as ever were very friendly and helpful, they suggested we tell them to meet us at Banavie, which would give us enough time to get through the intial locks and ascend Neptunes Staircase which is a series of 8 locks and like the rest of the canal is really an impressive piece of engineering from the board of a certain Mr Thomas Telford.

Whilst waiting on the other two boats that would be going through with us one of the BW staff took time out with Reyce and Prentice to explain how the locks worked and showed them the lock controls etc – really nice guy and a credit to British Waterways.

We explained to the boys how we would be using ropes etc and took time to demonstrate this to them in the first lock, they picked it up really well and by the time we were into Neptune’s Staircase they were doing an excellent job, being off the boat with Sara and controlling the ascent with the ropes and “walking” with these ropes into the next lock and repeating this all the way up.

I wish the guy from Norway who was in front of us had thought things through a bit better, as in one of the first locks he hadn’t put his bow line far enough forward to act as a brake against the current, and as soon as the force of the water from the sluice took hold his stern almost hit Sun Dog – suffice to say international language from me followed with him firing up his engine to keep clear – bugger me does he not do the same in the next lock – more international language followed as did a conversation with the lock keeper re positioning of his ropes at subsequent locks.

Thankfully after this there were no more dramas, and as they moved their bow line forward in the locks it not only made their control a lot easier and safer, it avoided their crew on the bow having a hernia – so all was well.

Given they were making a pigs ear of things it was rather neat for us to be moving the boat from lock to lock without any similar drama or shouting and heaving on lines, and all this being controlled by two young boys on the ropes (being watched carefully by Sara)- I was so chuffed! Well done guys!

With just about three locks to go Ian and Veronica arrived, and they had booked themselves into the Moorings Hotel at the side of the locks. They came back to the boat which we had tied alongside for the night behind a big motorboat for a coffee and a good ol’ chinwag before going back to the Moorings to get changed. Everything was peacefull and quiet when lo and behold Mr Motorboat decided to fire up a generator – the fumes of which we blowing straight down on us – why he should do this I don’t know as he could have plugged straight into a power supply which was right alongside his boat!! Luckily a boat moved off one of the pontoons further down and I decided to simply move the boat rather than have another “verbal exchange” on the canal – it really does however make you wonder about some people !

Ian and Veronica duly arrived looking a lot “cooler” than they had in their leathers, and we all went back to the hotel for a meal which was rather tasty with the boys opting for copious amounts of ice cream for dessert – the adults were all stuffed so declined. From there we all went back to the boat where Ian decided to show the boys how to set up their lines for river fishing and subsequently spent hours with them along the canal banking – not even the infamous Scottish Midgie could put him off – nice one mate the boys were impressed.

The following morning we set off with Veronica on board and Ian riding his motorbike round to Gairlochy at the start of Loch Lochy where once through the locks we went into a pontoon.

Reflections; I love this photo taken by Prentice

And this one taken by Sara

Sara on the phone to Debbie – seems like a day for laughter – great!

Ian joined us onboard for a short trip out into the Loch before returning to the same pontoon to have a late lunch before they set off home on the bike – a bit quicker than the boat no doubt!! We decided to spend the night here and the boys had a ball swimming around, feeding the ducks and fishing till it got dark.

We awoke to another beautiful warm day (with no wind) and motored up Loch Lochy to Laggan Locks which I have to say is delightful.

We had again to wait to get through due to lunch breaks so tied up to the waiting pontoon and another yacht came in and moored at our back. We used the time to look around and saw the sign on the lock keepers office said 1300 would be the next opening. With it being so hot the boys again went in for a swim then had lunch whilst drying off. Just before 1300 a hired boat (of which there are many) motored up to the lock gates not caring that there were already two boats on the waiting pontoon and was gesticulating and muttering loudly(as it turns out in Swedish) why the hell the gates would not open for him. I did try and explain that it was lunch time and that he would be best to tie up and wait – no sooner had he set off round the other side to tie up than the lock gates opened………was the lock keeper listening all the time and waiting for the most opportune moment to open the gate???? Anyhow Mr Sweden spotted the lock opening and the three of us went through together with Reyce and Prentice once again doing a grand job on the lines.

From there it was a short time till we reached the Laggan Swingbridge, once again a bridge that we have crossed so many times by road, and it was neat to have it open for us to go through by boat.

This then led into Loch Oich which for me was really pretty with plenty of marker buoys so it would be really hard, (despite it being narrow), for anyone to get wrong. From there we went through the locks at Cullochy and Kytra before arriving at Fort Augustas. Once again we were fortunate to get onto the end of a pontoon and whilst a number of boats had to raft up we were left alone – I’m never sure if it’s the low freeboard or rubber buffer that goes round Sun Dog that puts people off rafting alongside…..but who cares!

Once again the boys wanted to cool down by going in for a swim, and we also cooled them down with the water hose

We stayed the rest of the day here and came to the decision that we simply didn’t have enough time to go down through the locks and into Loch Ness. Once again we reprovisoned, then sat on the side of the series of locks and ate food from the chippie – washed down with cans of juice – not in the least bit healthy – but really tasty

The boys then disappeared with the camera to take photo’s of horses in a field next to the canal, and here are a couple of my favourites – these were taken by Prentice and I believe he really does have an eye for a good photo – he took the “reflections” one posted earlier in the blog.

Next morning we set off back down the same route and spending another night at Gairlochy which was by now a firm favourite with the boys for fishing, swimming and generally being able to stretch their legs and run around. The canal must be used regularly by the RNLI as during our time in the canal we saw three different lifeboats transiting.

Even when the rain came on the boys were not in the slightest bit detered, they simply put on their waterproof jackets and continued having fun with their home made boats c/w mast and sails with competitions to see which one went furthest.

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The good weather came back the following morning, & our plan was to get to Banavie, get a final laundry done (and dried) then get down Neptune’s Staircase into the basin at Corpach to refuel and be ready to leave when the tide was right. As it turns out we managed the laundry part easy enough but when we asked if it was possible to get down through the locks we were told that it might be marginal time wise as “The Lord of the Glens” was on it’s way up from Corpach to tie up for the night at Banavie and it would take about 1.5 hrs to get her through Neptunes Staircase.

I had never heard of nor seen this boat before but apparently she was specifically constructed to fit the locks; as you can see above there is not a lot of free space! We were told that only those with a few thousands to spend can afford to take a berth on her, and that she was/is extremely popular with Americans and Canadians.

Upshot was we didn’t get through that night but managed on the first lock through in the morning (0800) with another couple of boats and got into the basin for fuel, after which we were put into the sea lock to be ready to leave when the tide was sufficiently high to float the gates. The boys spent this time fishing again and spending time chatting/fishing with some of the local boys. Below is a shot of Ben Nevis taken as soon as the summit cleared.

We really needed to leave with an outgoing tide to enable us to get through the Corran Narrows and head for Loch Creran. We needed to arrive that night as once again the forecast wasn’t looking so good for the following day and the timing didn’t allow us to exit from Corpach and get into Loch Creran on the same tide. At one point or another we would have to punch against the tide.

Plan A was to exit the sea lock and wait on the pontoon till the tide turned at 1800.

Plan B I spoke with the guys at the sea lock and they reckoned that with the boat being the way she was with a big engine etc she should be able to punch through the tide without needing to wait. Their caveat was to stay on the eastern mainland side of the narrows and if the boat struggled this would give space to turn, and that the eddies etc were lesser on that side.

I finally decided on a compromise plan, which meant we would exit the sealock and head down to Corran as slowly as possible and by my estimation I would arrive at around 1600 which would mean That there was still two hours of foul tide to contend with which we could punch through under engine, or we would simply sit out these couple of hours at anchor round in one of the bays.

When we arrived at the Corran Narrows I did stay closer to the eastern bank and whilst there was no white water there was whirlpool effects eddies etc and the boat was having to work harder and harder as I was increasing the revs to maintain headway whilst keeping sufficent sea room to turn around if necessary.

In the midst of this one of the ferries decided to set off across the channel, but let’s face it, it was really easy for me to slow down !! Upshot of all this was I ended up at maximum revs on the engine and was only making 4 kts over the ground, once again showing that a big engine can sometimes be handy.

From there it was a reverse of the upward journey, and we arrived at Loch Creran at the time we had hoped/planned just as the tide was at slack water – this is also a narrow channel and subject to 4/5 kts of tide at spring tides – which was my dilema in getting down from Corpach………..I was always going to hit an adverse tide somehwere.

On the run into Loch Creran the winds, as forecast started to to build and once again we were going from calm conditions to 25kts of wind within a matter of minutes, we arrived at the mooring and I’m glad to say that once again Sara picked up the line first time and secured us quickly, which pleased me greatly given all the boats around about us swinging about on their moorings.

We spent a windy night onboard and had a “smiley miley” competition on miles covered from Troon the next morning, with everyone being close to the actual figure of 274 nm, almost all of which was done under engine or motorsailing.

Next day it was a case of rowing everything and everyone ashore, then getting the dinghy into the secure compound – taxi to Oban (the rain was absolutely pelting down) to catch the train to Glasgow Queen Steet, then round to Glasgow Central were we caught a train immediately – then off at Troon – taxi to Troon marina to pick up my car. From there we had to drop the boys off first, and they had a welcome party all ready for them complete with flags, balloons and bunting.

Then home for us a wee bit tired and jaded- but we did achieve a fair amount this holiday and the boys were fantastic – great company – great fun and great crew – well done lads.

Forecast was for NW 5/6 reducing to F3 on Sunday and even less on Monday. Our plan was to get up to the head of Loch Goil (a branch off Loch Long) as we had not been there before. Checking charts and cruising guides didn’t really give us a clear understanding of the defence situation both in Loch Long (Coulport Naval site) and also the “experimental areas” within Loch Goil.

I convinced myself that there would be no real activity over the weekend by HM Forces and if there was we would not be long in getting stopped by machine gun totting Royal Marines – and this would be sure to get my attention!!

Sara and I set off with the wind F5 ish – (really must fix the wind speed indicator!) straight on the nose so it was on with the engine and we motorsailed up to Portencross where we managed to get a short sail through the Largs Channel when we once again had to fire up the engine……..never ceases to amaze me how the wind knows where we wish to go !!! Some of the Fife Yachts are assembling for their Regatta this coming weekend, should be an impressive sight when all these boats from across the globe assemble and sail past the town of Fairlie where they were originally built.

Conditions after the Cumbraes were a lot calmer and the further north we went the calmer it became and the more the sun shone – lovely jubbly. On the way past Coulport where the Trident Missiles are stored I had mixed feeling on the beauty of Loch Long and our need for these kinds of weapons…..I couldn’t help thinking of the words penned by a certain Robert Burns who stated ……”Man’s inhumanity to Man makes nations weep” ….why can’t we learn to live in peace and harmony with fellow humans, irrespective of our different nationalities, race, colour, creed? Almost stepped fully onto my soap box there – sorry

The entrance to Loch Goil was simply stunning as it gently opened up with high hills on each side and Carrick Castle visible and the leading lights extremely clear even on such a bright day.

It was really beautiful going down the Loch and there were a few stunning properties – this one in particular caught my eye!

The new Anchorages Guide for 2008 produced for (boating) visitors to Scotland and an excellent example of joined up thinking, lists some nine moorings at the NE corner of Lochgoilhead – however the reality is there is only a trot of five, and we were lucky enough to use one for the night.

Next morning Sara fancied going up to the head of Loch Long to view Arrochar from the loch, (a place through which we have ridden through countless times on the motorbike) so we dropped the mooring and started heading out of Loch Goil in a perfectly still and beautiful morning as can been seen in the following photograph.

We then closed inshore to look at Carrick Castle which is listed as a ruin, but quite clearly someone is involved in a reconstruction program, and bringing this castle back to it’s former glory.

All along the banks of Loch Long there was quite a number of people fishing and diving, with some rather substantial “base camps” having been established on the side of the Loch & I was pleased to see so many people enjoying the great outdoors. When we reached Arrochar it was rather strange for us to view this town from the water, and the weather was so clear that we could see the top of “The Cobbler” one of the “Arrochar Alps” so named because the top of the mountain looks like a cobblers last.

Having reached the head of the Loch at Arrochar, we then about turned and headed back down Loch Long, and I wanted to check out a fishing boat that appeared to have been lifted ashore – still don’t know how he managed to achieve this! I realise a crane must have been involved but it would have had to have travelled a fair old distance to reach this location and there would be a fair reach out into the Loch to lift her out!!

From here we meandered back down Loch Long and then went up the Holy Loch to see the changes being made at Holy Loch Marina, and since I last visited they have been pretty busy, with the new extention to the marina well underway.

We then decided we would head down the Clyde and spend the night in Kilchattan Bay (Isle of Bute) where the St Blane’s Hotel have a trot of six moorings for visiting yachts, and there is also a small jetty for dingies located beside the flags of different nations – difficult to see the jetty from the moorings – but it is to the right of the hotel. There is also a nice long crescent shaped sandy beach for stretching of legs, building sand castles having picnics etc – nice spot.

There was lovely yacht on the mooring next to us, and the owners informed us she was a 1985 Taiwan built CL32, I’ve never heard of this make/model before but she was stunning.

We had a lovely relaxing night here and set off early the next morning. On the way down we had a “rare sighting” we could see Arran as clear as a bell, and that’s quite unusual because the old saying goes “if you can’t see Arran it’s raining – and if you can see Arran then it’s about to rain”. However this morning it was lovely and stayed that way all day. Marcus will appreciate this shot of Arran on a good day, as the last time he saw Arran it was a bit less than clear and calm (sic)!!

On the entrance to Troon (from where the Irish Ferry operates) there is a quick flashing light on the west pier that flashes when the ferry is either arriving or departing, and Sara and I had just been discussing this and checking with the binoculars. To get into the harbour one needs to cut across the bows of the Ferry therefore a wee bit of care is required when the ferry is in port. Neither of us could see the flashing light so Sara started heading for the harbour entrance, when suddenly we both realised that the ferry was actually beginning to move !!! expletives deleted! Sara went hard to port to circle away from the Ferry……….either they didn’t see us or they were fully committed to their exit, but whilst it wasn’t a “taking the paint off each other close” it was close enough for me………….neither harbourmaster nor ferry tried us on the VHF mmmmmmmm!!!

No real periods of sailing, but a lovely weekend non the less with us feeling a bit like tourists on a whistle stop tour – but it was good for the soul. Bring on the holidays

On Friday morning we set out for Campbeltown with the forecast being; wind east backing north east F4/5 occassional 6. Visibility was pretty poor, but looked like the sun might burn it off eventually.

Passing Lady Isle we noticed a fishing boat that looked a bit peculiar, our came the binoculars aand the reason why she was looking peculiar was that she was up on the rocks !! We had not heard anything on the VHF and assumed that they were waiting on high tide to try and refloat – fingers crossed.

Being on a broad reach we were having a terrific sail with the wind increasing as we cut past the Island of Pladda (off the south of Arran) Sara and Eilidh were taking turns on the helm and I was trimming the sails. To be honest there wasn’t much trimming required and it gave me time to relax in the cockpit and enjoy the sunshine. The only boat we saw, was a motor boat that passed us also on going to Campbeltown – no sails to be seen anywhere – and this a bank holiday weekend!

On we went until we were passing Davaar Lighthouse and into Campbeltown Loch

and down to the single pontoon which was really busy, and we were directed to go in the inside of the pontoon and raft alongside a UFO34 to leave space for older wooden boats. Turns out there was an Old Gaffers Associations meeting, and there were some really stunning boats. Sends a shiver down my spine when I think of the money and how many mandays must be spent ever year on these boats to keep them in this condition. Full credit to each and everyone of them as they are in actual fact maintaining part of our maritime heritage. There was even a full wooden Twister not composite or fibreglass – fully varnished – and from memory she was called Dream Twister, she must have been one of the originals. I should have taken photos’. Note to self – think!!

Next morning the forecast was much the same and we exited Campeltown Loch to headed up Kilbrannan Sound in a wind against tide situation, heading for Loch Ranza on the North West corner of Arran. It’s fair to say that by the time we arrived Sun Dog has an overall coating of salt ! Eilidh was at the helm most of the way as Sara was feeling a wee bit squiffy. Note to self – get some sea sickness tablets onboard.

We picked up a mooring buoy in Lock Ranza and had a late lunch, whereby the decision was made to stay the night on this mooring, so on with another line to the buoy – along with a silent thank you to the local authority for providing these facilities.

Loch Ranza is delightful, however it is well known for the squalls coming down off the mountains and sweeping across the Loch, and indeed I was awakened at 0400 by a really strong squall blowing though, and so pleased I had decided to double up on the lines.

After breakfast we were getting ready to head for Colintaraive to meet up with Roger and Hilary who have just refurbished the interior of Ducier their Nicholson 35, and had been on the phone saying they would be there today. The wind had increased and I was mulling over whether to put a reef in the main or go with full main – most yachts were going out either single or double reefed, but Sun Dog being a motorsailer has a shortish mast and therefore not a very large sail area on the main. Decision made I put in a reef on the mooring before setting off from the mooring buoy.

The seas were a bit lumpy and the wind increasing in strength of the north end of Arran, Sara was at the helm (feeling a lot better) and she did a super job on the helm through this lumpy stuff, while I again trimmed the sails – I was a bit busier today! Unfortunately Eilidh had agravated an old neck shoulder injury and was in a fair amount of pain and discomfort, the rockin’ and rollin’ the day before would not have helped! Note to self – get some painkillers onboard!

The sail across was terrific and we could, in reality have shaken out the reef – but didn’t. On the way across to the West Kyle we could see up Loch Fyne and saw the boats from the Scottish Series sailing down each side of the Loch in a flood of sail and colourful spinnakers.

We continued to sail all the way up the West Kyle in company with quite a number of other boats, and when the wind was stronger we caught up on the single/double reefed modern boats, and when the winds went lighter we lost out……….it really was a fun and enjoyable sail to the top of the Loch where we dropped sails and Sara took us through the narrows at Burnt Islands and we managed to pick up a mooring right behind Roger and Hilary.

I noticed that Roger had his dinghy inflated and he was “volunteered” as Mr Water Taxi (he was to much of a gent to refuse) for us to have a look at the work they have done on Doucier. We were all impressed and she is looking really really pretty, in fact I would have to say that she must be one of the best kept Nicholson 35’s around. Later that night Roger & Hilary joined us aboard Sun Dog for a lovely meal prepared by Sara and Eilidh (don’t know how they managed to conjure this up – well done ladies) and had a lovely time getting up to date with each other…..smashing.

Next morning we set off at 0600 and trundled down the East Kyle in calm conditions – perfect for breakfast and coffee before getting out into Rothesay Bay where there would be enough wind to sail. Indeed we ended up having a terrific sail down to Troon and we were all pleased to see that the fishing boat had managed to get off the rocks at Lady Isle.

All in all I would have to say that this was the best “sailing” weekend we have had with Sun Dog, and whilst she is not a “gung ho macho boat” she does manage to tick a lot of boxes not least of which is comfort and shelter from the biting winds – and we are increasingly of the opinion that she is eminently suitable for our type of “boating”…….Roll on the hols!!

When we got into Troon I decided to fill up the fuel tanks as it’s been some time since this was last done. After refuelling I done the calculation on ltrs/hour and was once again delighted to see that she is still only using 2.5lts per hour – or in old money slightly over half a gallon per hour. Pretty decent figures for a 92hp engine !

Sara, Eilidh, and I went through to Sun Dog late on Friday night arriving around 22.30 – stowed the food etc, and then to sleep.

Forecast for week-end in SW v NW 3/4 occ 5.

Original pencil plan was to head for Campbeltown this week-end, but with the forecast we decided to head up to Colintraive which would give us a reach pretty much all the way.

When we left the marina around mid-day it was a SW F5, so one roll in the genny and full mainsail we went cracking along at around 6 kts until sadly, but not surprisingly, the wind eased for a time just south of the Cumbraes. Shortly beforehand Hilary had phoned to say that she and Roger were up on Doucier this week-end and invited us to join them and others on Sunday for a BBQ on one of the beaches around the Burnt Isles.

We persevered as we knew the wind would come back and just coming round into the Largs Channel the wind started to pick up again and off we went again, this time on a broad reach running about 5.5 kts and a bit more in the squalls – visibilty was poor. Once round the north of Big Cumbrae we were heading into the wind and it also decided to wain to around a F2/3 so we decided to motorsail and have a spot of lunch as we went along.

En route we saw “The Waverley” exiting the Kyles and heading for Rothesay – beautiful old boat;

In heading up the Kyles the sea state was calm, pretty much in line with the forecast, but the squalls off the hills were pretty strong and we had to ease the mainsheet a couple of times. As we neared Colintraive the winds eased and it ended up a lovely peaceful evening with us swinging on a mooring, run today of 31nm and really enjoyable.

Sunday morning and we awoke early to a lovely clear morning, which carried on into the afternoon. We nipped across in the dinghy and went for a walk via the Colintraive Hotel and then down to the Community Centre where there was some kind of festival taking place with live music, food stalls, kids running around having fun with a lot of smiling happy people and all this taking place under a blue sky – terrific.

We went back to the boat and whilst waiting on Roger and Hilary to arrive, what should appear going up the Kyles again but “The Waverley”, and as you can see by the numbers onboard she is still very popular.

We decided when they came alongside to pick us up, against joining Roger & Hilary for the BBQ, (we felt we might be gatecrashing) but were delighted when they agreed that they would join us when they returned – which they duly did and we had a really good night catching up and enjoying each others company. Hilary is very accomplished and has compiled a number of CD’s – see Celtic Music under Links

“Doucier”; Roger & Hilary’s Nicholson 35

(L to R )Sara, Roger, Hilary, & Me, taken by Eilidh

Eilidh also took this shot of the Moon above the ferry terminal – excellent composition;

Next morning it was up and away by 0800 and we had expected to see Roger fishing as he had promised to Hilary last night that he would be up catching her fresh fish for breakfast! . Guess “Plan B” took over. However we did motor over to say farewell, but there was no sign of life on Doucier only little bubbles containing zzzz zzzzz zzzzz noises emitting from Doucier

We had a cracking sail on the way back to Troon, but unfortunately Eilidh wasn’t feeling that great and was trying to stop a migraine developing fully. So we closed out as much light as possible and suggested she just lie down and get some rest/sleep and hope it passed. I get these periodically and they can be most debilitating, real shame for Eilidh.

This left Sara and I to sail Sun Dog, and we worked well as a team and I have to say that the macho part of me has to admit failure, as Sara is now the official holder of the (current) boat record of 6.5 kts through the water on a broad reach in a F4/5.

In truth I think we could even have squeezed a bit more out of the sails, but we were heading for a gap in the islands where the wind would have been increasing and possibly becoming a bit “squally” – so we stuck a roll in the genny again just for the sake of prudence.

This breeze stayed with us all the way down our SE course till a few miles out from the marina when it dropped back to around F3/4 which meant our speed dropped significantly, shame really, but we had enjoyed the sail immensely. Sun Dog may be an old motorsailer, but in the right conditions she fairly trots along.

On the way down we had passed a larger yacht that was going along with no main, and a genny that was well furled, just shows the difference from a few weeks ago when we were overtaken by a “Legend” that was using the same sail plan, whilst we had everything aloft. If nothing else we have realised that Sun Dog does need a bit of breeze to sail and she can carry all sail comfortably up to (at least) a F5.

I had also noticed some of the plastic clips that hold the foot of the sail to the boom had burst, they looked really old and had probably just lost out to the ravages of time and UV’s – therefore into the chandlery when we got back for a full compliment of new clips etc and had this all fixed out before leaving for home.

All in all a good week-end and we found out a little bit more about Sun Dog and her abilities, (along with ours for her) and so far I would have to say she is proving a great all rounder; and when she loses in certain areas she gains in others. I suppose it’s no different really to any type of boat – as all boats are a compromise somewhere along the line.