"Sun Dog"

Keira Brett and Aaliyah arrived safely in Fenals for a couple of weeks and we were all booked into the same hotel. With Nana & Papa being available throughout this time for baby sitting duties, and sharing the overall enjoyment.

What a lovely family they make…

We found out that there were tickets available for the Spanish Supercup final between Barcelona and Real Madrid – so Brett and I had a special dispensation to go along for a fantastic football match. What an atmosphere within the Nou Camp stadium during game, with no signs of drunkeness and violence either before, during or after the match. Indeed there is no separation of fans within the stadium……..try doing that at certain UK football games!!

We all had a super time both at the beach and at the poolside with Aailyah increasing in confidence in the water every day, in fact if we had been there much longer I’m sure she would have started developing gills.

Our services as baby sitters were called upon when Keira and Brett spent a day in Barcelona which they really enjoyed – but not as much as we did having the little one to ourselves for a full day. This is one of my favourite pictures as she has just finished some chocolate milk in our hotel room, and despite my best endeavoiur at hiding this fact her wee chocolate chops give the game away

One day at the beach Keira wanted her mum to go out with her and Brett on a type of banana boat, but this one was a bit different in that it had a sort of aerofoil on the front so when the boat accelerated hard the front end went up in the air with the passengers all hanging on for dear life. Unfortunately Sara was catapulted and hit the water pretty hard, and gave herself a really sore rib cage. There is not much give in water when you hit it at around 20 knots.

Aaliyah and I were sensible and sat on the loungers, under the parasols eating ice cream while all this was going on………we weren’t really, the little one was asleep

They all left today and whilst Sara and I are extremely sad to see them go, we were pleased that the holiday was a success. Only other really sad part is that we will miss Aaliya’s 3rd birthday celebrations this week-end.

We are now parked up in Palamos Marina for a couple of weeks as Keira, Brett and Aaliyah are flying out and we are all booked into a hotel in Fenals (Lloret de Mar)

The marina office have some great shots of the marina taken last winter, and I thought these would be worth sharing to show that the Med is not a “boating pond”.

Aerial shot of the marina.

The sea wall these waves are coming over is at least 7 or 8 metres high!

More evidence the climate is changing – apparently no one could remember conditions like these, and sadly a couple of boats sunk with the weight of the snow and ice.

We have spent a couple of days in Rosas (expensive berthing) sheltering from the strong winds that have been blowing through, but the forecast for today was fine with 8/9 kts of wind from the north, then decreasing and veering round to the east……perfect wind directions for our trip to Palamos.

When we left Rosas we were sailing along with maybe a bit more than the forecast – can’t be sure of exactly what the wind speed was as the bloody wind instrument has now given up the ghost completely – but still it was lovely to be moving again.

This didn’t last too long, as the wind just kept increasing and the sea just kept rising, in one of the gusts coupled with a largish wave Sun Dog tried to slip her lead and just as I headed out to reduce the headsail I saw 8kts speed over the ground on the chartplotter, and Sara who had been lying down below shot horizontally off the settee in the saloon, and her progress across the boats was stopped only by the table. On Sun Dog 8kts is a wee bit beyond the boats hull speed and it was a relief to get the sails shortened, and Sara picked herself up off the floor…..as James Bond would say “shaken but not strirred”.

The strong winds stayed with us all the way down, and I am pleased that they were constantly from the North because I would not have enjoyed hours of bashing into these waves………..

On the way down the coast we passed LlaFranc where Sara and I stayed around 20 years ago when going around Europe on the motorbike, and I was taken aback at the amount of boats on swinging moorings and there is also a small marina that I couldnt recall.

It was also around here that the waves started to subside and the winds eased off a fair amount to around F4/5.

From there all we had to do was go between a rocky group of islands called Islas Hormigas and the mainland

and then a straightforward run down and into the marina.

We called them on the way down and were told to go to the fuel pontoon and we would then be told which berth would be allocated. We reiterated that we had pre-booked by e-mail some time ago hoping they would just allocate a berth number over the phone – but fuel berth it had to be!

We were duly met and told to go into D14 and this was down a really narrow alley, when I say narrow I mean narrow, Sun Dog would be too long to fit across between the parked boats. I got the boat parked and started breathing again, and with her all nicely secured I went down to the Office to do all the paperwork. During our conversation in the office, it transpired that we had been allocated the wrong berth and they asked us to move to A14 – hard to believe but things happen!

Back onboard I explained this to Sara, who unfortunately has been feeling pretty grim this afternoon and had been a bit ickky…..I said we could just leave things till later, but o’ no, she was willing to help get us to the correct berth.

Now all those that have manouvred boats will understand that sometimes it’s easier getting into a berth, and quite another getting back out in strongish winds, this coupled with the narrowness of the alley and Sun Dog being a long keeler had me a wee bit thoughtful about getting out. The only way it could be done was to reverse out the berth, and reverse back down the alley with the wind doing it’s best to help get the insurance documents ready

We made it safely back out into the main body of the marina and parked up easily in A14 as there was more room. When I say more room it’s all relative because back home if boats were parked this close there would be a hue and cry. However we were happy to finally tie the boat up, especially with Sara feeling so miserable – so we aint going anywhere today.

Once outside St Cyprien marina I went to haul up the mainsail only to have the connector on the end of the main halyard (bit of string that pulls the mainsail up the mast) part company with the sail and go flying halfway up the mast………expletives deleted!!

We then spent the next half an hour with me on top of the wheelhouse with an extended boathook trying to hook the halyard whilst Sara kept us head to wind to save excess rocking and rolling and aid my attempts – I do hope no one on the shore had a video camera running. Finally I managed to retrieve the halyard, and this time, connect it properly to the top of the sail. This is the first time I have done this and hopefully it will be my last, and was entirely my own fault as I obviously had not closed it properly the first time……. lesson learned.

There were two headlands we had to get around today, one being Cape Bear which according to local info has a good sheltered anchorage just to the south and one can shelter in safety from the Tramontana winds should it blow up quickly.

Photo of Cape Bear

http://www.flickr.com/photos/61650494@N05/5998281144/

We had winds gusting up to 20 knots and climbing rounding this headland when the bloody wind instrument failed again (it is becoming such a pain that I will simply leave it switched off) but as long as the winds stayed anywhere from the North it was fine by me.

Now as for the next headland, Cabo Crues, our friends from the pilot book state and I quote;

”….it is one of the most dangerous points on the whole of the west coast of Spain because it is in the centre of the path of the NW Tramontana”…….

Well that helps settle the mind then!!

Photo of Cabo Crues

We motored and then sailed until the speed dropped, and then motored again on and off during the day, as the both the wind direction and speed was changing at regular intervals. On the approach to Roses, there was a fair old posse of motor boats coming and going, and given we were close to the cliffs there was both the wash from the boats and the reflected wash from the cliffs causing a bit of turbulence. Also with the really big motor boats going so close to really small boats (some with young children on board) was a bit dodgy at times, and why when they must know they are creating a big wash they go so close is beyond me.

The rest of the journey was uneventful and we arrived at Port Roses where I called the marina office on Channel 9, and they asked us to hover around the fuel pontoon and they would come and get us.

Out popped a dingy with three staff on board, two of which got off on the wall to take our bow lines, while the other stayed in the dingy to help manoeuvre the boat if required. This was our first experience of mooring Med style and once we had our bow lines on, we were passed ropes which lead back out into the marina, and which one takes in the slack and walks (in our case) to the stern of the boat and is tied off tight, thus keeping the boat from hitting the harbour wall.

These guys were brilliant and their expertise showed later in the afternoon when the wind had piped up, as when other boats came in with these strong winds, the same sequence took place, only this time the guy in the dingy had a line with a snap hook and he attached this to the cleat of the boats going in to ensure this was done in a controlled manner; acting pretty much like a mini tug.

How one would do this themselves or shorthanded in a blow, could be “interesting” or perhaps lead to an exchange of insurance information…….

Finally here is a photo of Sun Dog tied up in Rosas and flying the Spanish Courtesy Flag. I can say in all honesty there was more than a little frisson of excitment in us arriving in Spain all the way from Scotland.

The trip to St Cyprien was pretty straightforward and basically it was a case of following the 20m contour line along all the beaches thronged with people enjoying the sunshine. It is a large Marina with an abundance of mechanical, electrical and all measure of boat services available.

We decided to have our wind instrument checked out, which is either showing incorrect wind direction or cutting out and showing nothing. This problem has been getting worse since we left Scotland, and is not related to having the mast stepped.

A chap from Puig & Files came down onto the boat and the bloody thing was working OK, he was very thorough and checked all the connections etc and reset the unit so it was reading a bit closer to the actual wind direction, and showing the correct wind speed. Bingo we thought and all he would accept was 20 euro’s – really nice helpful human being.

We arrived back to the boat on Wednesday 27th and couldn’t find it on the pontoon where we had left it, so either it had been stolen or more likely moved by the marina to another berth. The latter was indeed the case, so we got back onboard feeling more than a little jaded. The marina were OK for us to stay until the 29th so we spent time relaxing and unwinding.

I finished off re setting the mast last night and ensuring all the wiring connection were OK and that everything was working properly. We then checked the weather forecast and saw that tomorrow (Sunday) the Tramontana NW wind was due to pick up strongly from mid morning with 32 kts gusts forecast.

We therefore decided to set the alarm and get an early start which we did and when we set off there was only aboout 8kts of breeze, but on the way down the winds increased quite a bit.

I decided to head closer inshore where we would still have the wind, but not the waves. This meant avoiding a couple of areas where there is an interdict banning boats, but the trip and entrance to the marina complex was pretty straighforward.

However the wind increased yet again and as Sara was getting the bow line tied on a big slop of a wave soaked her………..ah well that’s sailing for you.

At the reception pontoon the wind was around 30 kts and blowing off the pontoon, but neat ropework by Sara had as alongside safely. We then were given a designated berth in Bassin 2 of this huge complex split into different bassins.

Here we will stay until Wednesday as the winds are meant to increase again on Tuesday.

This afternoon with the grey skies and strong winds it was more like being home rather than in the Med…….but heigh ho, musn’t grumble

Frustrating day as we had been up early in the hope of the mast being lifted and fitted first thing……cutting a long story short it was eventually done at 1900……..nuff said.

National holiday today so cannot get mast up until tomorrow. Therefore I spent time and sorted the float switch and bilge pump which had been acting up and also refitted the light boxes on wheelhouse roof (glad I removed them for the canal) prepared the mast as much as possible. Bought charts & have been promised help from Allamand to turn the mast before lifting it back into position.

Their yard is about 1/2 mile from the exit/entrance to the Med – on the right hand side of this photo

Good to know we will reach the last lock today – The Round Lock – where those continuing through the Midi go straight on whilst those heading for Grau du Agde (us) turn right.

However before the lock we had to go under the Barrage at the Libron Crossing, which is closed when the Libron River is in spate.

This was really the first day when the wind has blown strongly, and I guess it was around F5 gusting F6 at times, and the holiday boat in front of us was occasionally getting blown sideways in an alarming fashion.

As it was approaching the lockkeepers lunch time we tied up quickly and nipped up to see the layout of the lock, and asked the lockkeeper what the procedure was for boats going through. He explained where we needed to tie up once the lock was re – opened.

When back on board another 15mtr holiday boat came in to tie up in front of us, and the wind was blowing straight down the canal (from the back of us) and we nipped out to take their lines. The chap at the helm was doing fine, and I was going to take their stern line as this was key to them not losing the back end of the boat and Sara was going to take their bow line.

I asked, gesticulated, faced Mecca and prayed for the stern line – but o’ no they were insistent of the bow line first – and then the inevitable happened as the stern was quickly blown out (it was gusting strongly) and the boat was beyond being sorted out. Sara done the right thing and threw the line back onto their boat, whilst I again gesticulated for them to turn and come back facing into the wind. This they did do, and we managed to get them tied up quickly and safely, for which they were very grateful and explained that they had just taken the boat this morning, and no one onboard had ever been out on a boat before…………

I had my concerns about going into the round lock with these boats, and was mightily relieved when the lights changed to green and we went in that both holiday boats had decided to stay tied up, and we were on our own in the lock.

You might think I am overdoing it about holiday boats, but it’s a serious concern when ones own investment is at risk, and it would be a sudden and dramatic end to our sabbatical if we were damaged/rammed by one of them……. Obviously there are some really proficient boat handlers on the canal, but from there it can go downhill rapidly. End of rant!!

Funnily enough as we were tied up the canal waiting on the designated time to exit to the Herault River a couple from Largs came over for a chat, and as it turns out he races regularly out of Largs Marina where Sun Dog is berthed….it really is a small world sometimes.

Our time came round and out of the lock we went, down the short link canal, quick turn right under the bridge, and down Herault River

to Allamand Marine who have been recommended by a lot of people, and as they have limited berthing we had phoned in advance to book for the mast being lifted.

In the following photo you can see the only floating pontoon they have, and they also have a couple of docks for boats to get lifted/lowered back into the water. Only one thing to watch out for (but you can do nothing about it) is wash, not only the big fishing boats, but almost all the boats going up and down the river create a fair old wash.

Winds are too strong for the mast to be lifted this afternoon, but there might be a chance tomorrow morning – fingers crossed.

What a really welcoming people the population of Grau de Agde proved to be as not only did they put on an evening display of “Boat Jousting” for us they also lit up the sky with a large firewaork display. Whilst this was very pleasing, we thought they should really have been focussed on on tomorrow as after all it will be Bastille Day.